Eat, drink and be merry

THINK of a café today and immediately a picture of comfortable couches and chairs in a softly-lit ambience against shades of either cream, brown, maroon (or in some cases, black) comes to mind. You know it’s not a place where you’re going to stuff yourself with food and leave content with a full stomach and an inclination to go home and sleep – the sofas and chairs were never meant for that, not now and not even when the first proper café opened up sometime in the middle of the 16th century in Turkey.

Having always been a place where groups of people got together for light, intelligent conversation, coffee houses or cafés have been vehicles through which local cultures in different parts of the world experienced an evolution. The growth of coffee houses in any area is considered a positive sign and the local mushroom growth of cafés (as opposed to tea houses) in the major cities of the country, Karachi and Lahore, is often quoted in foreign publications as signifying the advent of a Pakistani ‘liberal’ culture.

Coffee made its way in Pakistan (commercially) in 1998, when drinking coffee wasn’t a pop culture norm -- tea was the more dominant and preferred choice of drink. Its growth has spurted to being included as one of the must-have beverages whenever the local city-dwelling population goes out to socialise. Coffee and cafés have predominantly Middle Eastern beginnings. Known as ‘kahvehane’ in Turkish, ‘al-maqhah’ in Arabic, ‘qahveh-khaneh’ in Persian and ‘kopi tiams’ in Malay and Singapore, cafés originated in the 16th century as a place to read books and/or play chess. Records indicate that Kiva Han was the name of the first independent café in Turkey and the culture regarding coffee was so strong that in those times, women could divorce their husbands on the grounds of their inability to provide them with adequate amounts of coffee. Turkish coffee was often served black, strong and unfiltered. The concept of including milk and cream in one’s coffee was introduced as a predominantly European style of brewing and consuming coffee.

Some time in the 17th century, coffee travelled outside the Ottoman Empire and into Europe when the Turkish Army left bags full of coffee after their invasion of Vienna (Austria). The potential of the curious green beans was recognised by Franz Georg Kolschitzky, the first person to open a café in Europe, and who had spent a considerable time living in Turkey to identify the aroma, taste and potency of the coffee beans left behind by the Turkish Army. Having been introduced into Europe this way, coffee has never looked back, going as far as to the Americas and the subcontinent, with each geographical area developing their version of a ‘café culture’.

In Britain, coffee houses were a place for intelligent discourse. They were a place where like-minded individuals could get together and discuss everything from literature and poetry to business and politics to the reigning king’s apparel. Such was the popularity and ease with which individuals could meet and socialise in cafés that they soon became a centre for many firms to conduct their business meetings and finalise their transactions.

The fact that in 1668 a coffee shop run by Edward Lloyd was such a popular centre for business dealings that it subsequently became the still-currently-operating Lloyds of London Insurance Company, a testament to the cafes’ growing influence. Well known and reputed auction houses such as Christies took birth in the salesrooms attached to cafés in Britain around that time. So much so was the impact of cafés that they were soon as ‘penny universities’ in local slang because a ‘penny’ was what a cup of coffee cost and a café was where local educationists, literary figures and business men came together.

The influence of cafés on the local culture wasn’t limited to Europe alone. When America was colonised, coffee was almost immediately introduced by the local Italian immigrant community and coffee houses started becoming a common norm. Established in 1792, the Tontine Coffee House in New York was, because of the sheer number of business transactions conducted there, the original location of the New York Stock Exchange.

In the 1950s, cafés experienced a different kind of cultural evolution -- that which included music. They fast became a venue for entertainment where poetry reading and local folk musicians were encouraged to come and share their pieces of music. The café-going culture was so dominant at the time that there used to be cafés lined up one after the other in all of the popular streets and almost all of them would be full most of the time, and at the end of the day, café brawls and fights were also not unusual.

Musicians such as Bob Dylan made their mark in the American industry by first performing in cafés alone. The 1970s saw the introduction of a standardisation and refinement of the café model in America with the advent of local coffee house chains such as Star Bucks. And since then, the definition of a café has evolved and has been altered to suit the current pop culture tastes and trends.

On a global level, cafés continue to be a hub of social activity. They are still places where people get together to have a conversation, to share ideas and to communicate -- via literature or music. They continue to serve the business community and the working-individuals within it with the café model being updated with the introduction of Wi-Fi hotspots.

With their continuing popularity and with the rapid advancement in technology, it is predicted that coupled with fast-paced and direct communication methods, cafés will again be a predominant place for people to go and work from as opposed to working in a proper, designated, physical workspace. Having already become the norm in European countries and in the United States, cafés now provide designated areas for those lugging their laptops with them complete with electrical sockets and adequate chairs and tables.

Although locally we may not be at such an advanced stage when it comes to our local café culture, which predominantly consists of individuals coming together for a random conversation or younger individuals for music, there is no denying that with the growing popularity local cafés are generating, we are on our way to our local cultural evolution.

First Published:
The Magazine
September 23, 2007