Jay-Z parts with Def-Jam

It’s true: ace-rapper and one of the most sought-after producers in the American music industry, Jay-Z is stepping down from his post as President and Chief Executive Officer of Def Jam Records. And with everything that involves Jay-Z, this move also has its own share of controversies.

“It’s time for me to take on new challenges” said the rapper in an official statement. He has just recently released his tenth studio album, American Gangster, via Def Jam and according to a separate, long-term contract that Jay-Z held with the record label, as an artiste, and is to release two or three albums with the label. Jay-Z who came out of retirement in 2006 and released an album titled Kingdom Come, was often criticised for his seeming interest in promoting his own work than of the artistes signed up with the record label he was overseeing.

Despite the accusations, Jay-Z single-handedly raised Def-Jam Records back to its initial formidable height as one of the most powerful house in rap. During his tenure Kanye West released two highly-successful albums, Late Registration and Graduation, Fabolous with From Nothin’ to Somthin’, he signed on Ne-Yo and Rihanna, the latter who he converted into an international superstar. He helped bolster the careers of Rick Ross, Nas and Jadakiss and launched Young Jeezy’s career as well.

Although Jay-Z declines rumours circulating that he stepped down from the post on monetary terms, citing that he was looking for newer business models for selling records, an anonymous source from Universal – the company that owns Def-Jam – stated that the company was letting go of the Jigga Man because under a renewal of contract that Jay-Z was seeking required Universal to pay him, provided he met some financial goals, over 10 million dollars.

Some may argue that Jay deserves it, but an alternative argument could be that since the record label industry has been experiencing a radical decline in monetary benefits due to rampant piracy and stark declined in CD sales, and coupled with Jay’s own share of controversies, Universal may have decided that renewing his contract wasn’t a feasible option for them. It is unclear whether Jay-Z’s position will be filled immediately after his departure.

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December 30, 2007

Kami in K-town

He was once quoted as saying that he’s dedicated to making everyone’s life “fabulous”. Kamiar Rokni is the fashion industry’s blue-eyed boy and favourite success story. His ‘divorce’ (as he likes to call it) from Karma, the label he helped set up and designed in for roughly around seven years, left no doubt in anyone’s mind that he would be able to make it on his own.

Since the breakup, Kamiar’s individual line has been eagerly awaited by almost everyone in or remotely interested in the fashion industry. No one could truly predict what it would be like, but the general consensus was that it would be “utterly fabulous”.k2.jpg

The one thing that is immediately noticeable about Kamiar is that he tends to dress conservatively but with a flair (think black-and-white pant suit with bright red shoes) — he embodies the chic-yet-funky ’70s glamour, brings it to the current decade and makes it his own. Armed with a charismatic smile and devil-may-care attitude, this fashion magician launched his collection at the recently established Ensemble in Karachis Old Clifton district.

Kamiar was originally supposed to launch himself via the indefinitely postponed Pakistan Fashion Week, but has decided to start small by stocking in multiplexes, first at The Boulevard in Lahore. He is perhaps testing the ground and working on the feedback before arriving with the proverbial big bang. Kamiar confirmed this by saying: “With Ensemble I will be providing my ready-to-wear line on a regular basis and in the spring (2008), sometime in late March, I will be coming out with a couture collection. And hopefully I’ll back that up with a show as well.”

k3.jpgStanding side-by-side, with collections by fashion icons in the subcontinent — from India there is Tarun Tahiliani, Sumar Dugar, Rohit Bal and Ritu Kumar; and from Pakistan there is Faiza Samee, Umar Sayeed, the recently relaunched Shamael Ansari and fashion talent Sadaf Malaterre — is now Kamiar Rokni’s prêt-a-porter collection and couture line. Keeping it simple for the winter party season, Kamiar plays with bold motifs, appliqués and mesh embroidery on colours ranging from deep turquoise, mustard, hot pink, white, beige and black. The cuts are straight and simple and nothing is over-the-top. An outfit that stood out was a black ‘tuxedo dress’, longer on the backside and relatively short in the front, no doubt meant to be worn with pants, and with a simple white checkered neckline.

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“I was thinking in terms of re-thinking,” said Kamiar when asked about his inspiration for the line. “The inspiration was to re-think silhouette, embellishment, form and colour, and so I’ve done a lot of things I’ve never done before: a lot of appliqué, large motifs and a lot of graphic stuff. I also haven’t done that much of beading and crystals. The inspiration really was rebirth, a rethinking my design philosophy.” About whether he has a favourite piece from the collection, Kamiar says, “I do, actually. It’s sold. It’s called the Mod Squad outfit which is this A-line shift with black-and-white trim at the hem, that’s one of my favorites from the collection. Also, I love my warp and weft embellished tops from the same line.”

k5.jpgThe launch saw the likes of Safinaz, Umar Sayeed, Rizwan Beyg, Nomi Ansari, Deepak Perwani, Faiza Samee, Sadaf Malaterre, and also brought out the shy Iman Ahmed (formerly Imranna Ahmed, of Body Focus) and model Nausheen Shah.

When asked how they felt about Kamiar’s collection, they were full of praise. “Kami’s clothes are very well-cut, the choice of fabric is excellent and perfect for the Karachi weather. The colour coordination, piping, the little details and the finishing is very nicely neatly stitched. I think Kami will do very well in Karachi,” said Nomi Ansari.

Despite having a stock in Ensemble herself, Sadaf Malaterre enthused: “I picked up one of the shift tops myself. I like the simplicity in them and I adore him.”

Zeba Hussain of the Teachers’ Resource Centre and whose daughters are managing Ensemble was of the opinion: “I think Kamiar’s taken Karachi by storm. I’ve always admired his work and I’m really happy that he’s here with us. I’m looking forward to working with him.”k6.jpg

According to Deepak Perwani, Kamiar’s collection contains “beautiful stuff. I love the kaam as it’s quintessentially Kamiar: It’s playful, it’s fun and the embroidery is beautiful. I’ve always thought that Kami has a very strong sense of design, in terms of how he sees his women. And he definitely sees his women beautifully.”

Judging by the response the launch generated, Kami may well be on his way to replace the ‘K’ in Karachi by that in Kamiar.

Photos:

1. Model, Nausheen Shah going through the collection

2. A view from outside

3. Kamiar with Iman Ahmed (formerly Imrana Ahmed of Body Focus) and his publicist, Selina Rashid

4. Kamiar walks Freiha Altaf through his collection

5. Batul Rizvi, Omar Sayeed, Kamiar Rokni, Faiza Samee and Zeba Hussain

6. Rizwan Beyg and Faiza Samee examining Kamiar’s work

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December 20, 2007

DJ Sheru on the move

Hasan Shehryar Yasin is working on expanding his empire, with plans to establish the “largest Pakistani presence” in fashion design in the UAE by opening up an outlet in Dubai in March next year. It will feature a diverse range of HSY originals from his prêt a porter, couture, denim (HSY Denim) and sportswear (HSY Active) collections. He also plans to introduce a new line, HSY Noir through the launch as well which sees him feature his abayya collection. HSY Denim and Active will also be shown at a show in Lahore today, from a collection he had previously shown in the Dubai. For those who may have missed his last performance, DJ HSY is expected to be found working his turntables after the show.

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December 16, 2007

Dream with in a dream...

Entering the Commune Artiste Colony sometime last week, I was surprised to see a larger-than-life-sized brown wooden stool near the entrance. Upon peeking inside one could see that there was a massive video shoot taking place inside.

Parts of the gallery space had been converted into a set with screens and the occasional sofa and soon enough, one caught the haggard and weary-looking Umar Anwar directing some of his crew to making small changes in the set.

One also saw Haroon sitting on one of the chairs watching everything as it progressed, waiting for ‘shooting’ to resume. This writer immediately caught up with what the prolific music video director was up to.

Taking a break from directing commerials, Umar Anwar is back in the realm of making music videos with Haroon’s Nahin Hai Yeh Pyar. Tired of doing commercials, Umar was eager to get into something that would exercise his creative side.

Shot as a “dream within a dream within a dream”, according to Umar, the video is about a person who “is in denial. When someone lives in denial, he tends to create his own fantasy world around him.”

The video of Nahin Hai Yeh Pyar featuring Haroon is expected to hit the airwaves sometime later this month.

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December 16, 2007

An Ali-en concept



One of the first things you will notice about Ali Azmat is that not only is he a wonderful entertainer, he is a very gracious host and makes sure everyone around him is fully tended to. The second thing you’ll notice is that despite the entertaining he does off-stage, cracking jokes and striking up conversations with those in his presence, he is always watching and observing everyone and everything around him. You can run, you can hide, but his quietly inquisitive eyes will find you wherever you are.

In the mid-afternoon that this interview took place; however, we see a different side of Ali. He is still the gracious host but is somewhat quiet and almost lazy – a trait he repeatedly identifies himself with. His second album, titled Klashinfolk, which has been generating a buzz for over a year now is in its final mixing stage before being complete for a commercial release. He’s also recently come back from a trip to India where he’s considering working on a couple of projects.

In an exclusive heart-to-heart with Images, Ali talks about what all he’s been up to, how is album is coming out and on him as a producer.

Word has it that you’ve recently agreed to produce a couple of songs for Indian films. What specifically are you working on?

AA: I’m producing a couple of songs for them. I did one for a movie called Tera Kya Hoga Johnny which is my friend’s Sudhir Mishra who has also made Hazaron Khuahishain, Chambeli, etc and is a very good director. I did two songs for a movie called Mumbai 11. It’s basically 11 directors shooting 10-minute movies. I also did a soundtrack for Rahul Dholakia, who actually won the Indian National Award last year for Parzania, the movie it stars Naseeruddin Shah among others. And I’m doing another movie for Akash Ghutnaam and there are numerous other projects.

They are basically independent film-makers, who are away from the pressures of Bollywood or of casting the ‘right’ actors.

Now that you’re a supporter of independent cinema, does that mean you won’t be producing music for commercial films?

AA: No, actually I spoke with powerhouse directors such as Nadiawala. I’m in touch with everybody but it really depends on the kind of projects I should take, because I’m not going to write dhoom dhamaka music, that’s not what I do. Around five of the songs from my new album are already being used as soundtracks to Indian films. I’ve shot around two music videos in Bombay and one in Goa.

Why shoot them in India?

AA: Because cheaper to do it there and you get all sorts of facilities like cheaper film, cheaper cameras, and developing is not a problem. So from that point of view, it’s a little more convenient, rather than in Pakistan where, when you shoot a video, you have to worry about sending a guy to Thailand or Dubai to finish it. It sort of works out, if your already going to be there.

But you do plan to make music videos in Pakistan as well?

AA: I’m planning to make a lot of videos this time around. I did four videos last time and I was on my fifth video, but I realised that my new album is ready and I was shooting songs from the old album, it doesn't make any sense. I might as well spend some money on the new one.

With you having directed one of your videos so far (Mein Challa), will you be directing any more on your own?

AA: I’m doing all of them on my own. I directed one video, and the whole thing is about getting an idea right. And I’m not much of a visual artist which is why I rely on people like Zeeshan (Parwez) and Saqib (Malik), etc. It has to be visually relevant for them for them to come up with something. I can write concepts. But I’m not a visual artist and I don’t know anything about shooting/camera/lights etc.

Why call the new album Klashinfolk?

AA: I thought it was perfect for the kind of culture we indulge ourselves in. We’re all about guns and bombs and we're totally desensitised to the AK47 culture. Kalashnikov to humarey culture ka ek hissa hai. Agar aap kay pas Kalashnikov nahin hai to phir aap mard nahin hain.

So I got myself a Klashinfolk, to shoot people around with the music.

What does the new album sound like?

AA: I really can’t explain what it is. For me, the musical genre is Ali-en (alien), it sounds cheeky but that's my genre. But it still sounds like rock and roll. In this album we’ve tried, stuff like country jazz and reggae and a sort of rock and roll thumris.

What are the songs in the album predominantly written about this time around?

AA: It’s about everything and nothing. It’s not really a conceptual album; it’s a record and a labour of love. It’s coming from the point of view of the kind of person I was a few years ago when I wrote Social Circus and this is the kind of person I am now. The music I’m writing is about the kind of state of mind that I’m in currently.

Songs are songs, at the end of the day you have to treat them as songs. You can’t state a song in a certain way; it will kill the listeners’perception of what that song is about. This is the lesson I learnt when I used to listen to Pink Floyd. Because you believe for years a certain song means something and then you find out what it was actually about… it kills it. As artistes we leave that area open for interpretation.

Also the kind of music you listen to is what’s going to inspire you to come out with. Like Social Circus was an inspiration from a band called Live. It goes from dark tones — with no extra guitar solos — to simple song-writing and it sort of worked out for that point in time. The album survives on itself on different levels. Social Circus was a dialogue with oneself. Most of the album was written in a very depressive state-of-mind because I was out of a relationship, I was out of a band, I was falling out with my parents and friends and so there was a whole phase where I was by myself and basically At war with the world.

But Klashinfolk is not like that. It is coming from a different state of mind. It’s varied and it’s perky and it’s not depressive.

You had fun making the album?

AA: Yes, and I had around 48 songs out which I only recorded 11.

And did they come out the way you expected?

AA: More so than I expected them to be. This also moves up my confidence as a producer because I never produced before Social Circus and I’ve won awards for that. I’m loving it because I can produce and I have an ear for that. I’m going after it like nobody's businesses.

But I’m enjoying producing my own records; the sound, the guitar parts, the vocal harmonies, drum sound, guitar sound etc. You’re producing on top of everything else, right from the beginning.

So you’re enjoying the control you have over the album?

AA: It’s not even about control, it’s about pushing into the deeper end. What’s the other choice: whose going to produce it? If I don’t make a decision then nobody else is going to do it. In Junoon there was a power struggle and those guys thought that they were much better musicians so they would do what they thought was right. But what they didn't have was an ear for production.

When you listen to the album you'll understand what I’m talking about because the sound-scapes, they (Salman Ahmed and Brian O’Connell) couldn't create it. Salman Ahmed is a good songwriter but he was not a good producer. I don't own any Junoon music, I can't relate to it. From a production's stand-point, that is not what I want to hear.

Because you’re individual sound is very different?

AA: Yes. And I want to make it more different.

You’re not interested in developing a signature sound?

AA: Not at all. I don’t want to be stuck in a rut and make a parody of myself. Junoon was basically caricatures of themselves and it sort of irritated me. I don't want to be stuck as a sufi soul singer. I’m not sufi, I’m just goofy. Because your growth needs to be documented and this is my growth (as a musician) being documented.

-- Photography: Amean J.

First Published:
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December 9, 2007

Behind the shoot: Maheen Karim

Designer: Maheen Karim
Photography: Rizwan-Ul-Haq
Hair&make-up: Fouzia Ahmed @ Mubashir Khan's salon
Model: Nausheen Shah
Fashion Editor: Madeeha Syed

You can never be absolutely sure how a concept for a shoot will turn out till it actually happens. The concept itself was inspired by the understated glamour and sophistication embodied by the classic sensation, Twiggy. Keeping that in mind, the idea was to shoot a model in her natural environment, at work, literally ‘acting’ as a model. As it would turn out, it’s much easier for someone in front of the camera to assume a character than ‘act’ natural — with the exception of reality TV stars.

The hair and make-up, directed by Mubashir Khan was kept very simple with no added glitter anywhere. What was interesting to note was that when ever the model, Nausheen, did not intentionally pose was when she fit perfectly into the character that we were trying to portray. There were moments when she took a small break and casually sat down on the couch we’d asked her to freeze for a frame or to improvise on what she was already doing.

Almost every single person participated, including Maheen, the designer (who at one point, instructed a somewhat brilliant pose to the model — something which the model couldn't quite catch on to) and the hair and make-up artist who along with Maheen helped contribute as extras in some of the frames. Despite getting into it not knowing fully what to expect, at the end of it all, with the collective efforts of working with everyone involved, it turned out just as well, if not better, than what we had expected.
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December 9, 2007

The understated bride

Hajra Hayat isn’t out there to create a bang or hoopla. She isn’t one of those to stick out a feather, expose a leg or come up with crazy colour combinations just to attract attention and establish herself as a fashion “visionary” simply because she’s also not a fortune teller — she is a designer who designs for the ‘now’.

Hajra Hayat is known to design outfits that are “wearable” as her outfits are always aesthetically pragmatic. Despite several innovations, in a show this Lahore-based designer held in Karachi recently, it was evident that she hasn’t deviated much from her design philosophy.

Rang De, the official title of the Hajra Hayat Winter 2008 bridal wear collection was shown, at the onset of the wedding season, in collaboration with Shehzad Roy’s Zindagi Trust. After speeches relating the objective and ideology of the Trust, including one by Roy himself, those present were treated to a performance by him to three songs, two of which were performed live with his guitarist Imran Akhund.

Of these, one was a cover of a Beegees classic re-made by an equally popular cover by Boyzone, Words. As much as this scribe appreciates Roy’s inherent love for the song, covering a classic and performing it is an intimidating feat in itself and unfortunately, Roy simply lacked the ‘soul’ needed to make his cover of it his own. He then performed his most popular song to date, Sali, disappointingly on DAT. Thankfully, it was the last song performed by him and the Hajra Hayat Rang De fashion show finally kicked off.

The opening segment showed a white, western-inspired collection. There was no over-the-top embroidery or embellishments; the line was simple, with elegantly cut shirts over straight-pants or capris. For a moment it seemed as though Hajra had toned down for her showing in the city but not for long. The embroidery and bling increased as the show advanced. The predominant colours Hajra has played with in the collection are white, pink, red and blue. Most of the saris that were shown carried deep-cut blouses at the back with intricate embroidery done around the borders and across the back as well.

An interesting combination was a red and blue bridal outfit, a combination which has been a tad overdone but was manageable in this case. What stood out from the bridal section was a simple white, lightly embellished, long-skirted outfit worn by model Faiza Ansari with an equally simple dupatta over her head. The outfit was perfect for the more untraditional bride looking to separate herself from the norm. Another eye-catching outfit was a pink-bloused red ghaghra worn by Sunita Marshall with a pink border towards the hemline of the ghaghra with circular mirrored-disks bordering it.

At this point one has to mention that out of all the models Faiza Ansari seemed to be having fun. She swirled her pink sari when walking the ramp adding a little bit of extra ‘oomph’ to it. On the other hand, despite having seen Nadya Hussain several times on the runway, and despite being tall and beautiful to look at, she unfortunately does not understand the importance of a good posture or timing when strutting down the ramp. She walks while leaning oddly backwards, resulting in her lower body leading the way with her upper body following. She also tends to walk painfully slow, disregarding the pace that the other models were keeping or even the overall beat of the song being played. Despite having been around for quite some time, Nadya is desperately in need of lessons on how to walk on the runway.

Another interesting thing to note was that most of the people attending were not from the local fashion fraternity, they were socialites and individuals from the corporate sector, people who are genuine buyers of designer-wear outfits.

Overall, the collection wasn’t over-the-top or a work of a creative genius. It was, however, creatively done with outfits which people could actually wear (as opposed to ‘just see’). The western-inspired line was a welcome addition and since it seemed to be fused with certain eastern cuts as well, one can be sure these would be ideally suited for the youth of today – the ‘Minglish’ speaking crowd. If simplicity in design is the hardest thing to carry, then Hajra Hayat carries it really well.

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December 2, 2007

The next Lennon?

More news on the Ali Zafar front is that this crooner has released a song titled, Those for Truth, on his official website, www.alizafar.net. Unlike any other song Ali Zafar has released, this song is soft, mellow, with a simple piano progression playing along to him singing the lyrics in a slightly higher pitch, than what we are accustomed to listening from him.

When questioned, Ali said that he wrote the song keeping in mind everything that was happening to us (mankind) around the world and the times that we’re living in. He is yet unsure whether the song will be included in any upcoming album and would like to welcome feedback in the form of videos being made by his fans and interested individuals.

“Even if it’s a simple video made on a mobile phone,” he said, adding that there would be a bit of a surprise for the best one selected, showing his interest in increasing interaction between him and his fans.

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December 2, 2007

The Rogue bride

Designing under the label of Rougue, with Mamoona Mannan's bridal wear collection already a success in Lahore, the Rogue bride will be unveiling herself in Karachi along with bridal wear collections by HSY, Karma, Sublime and Maysoon at The Designers outlet this weekend.

This will be the first time that Mamoona Mannan will be showing her collection in Karachi. The showing will display a whopping 40 bridal-wear outfits for this season by the mentioned designers.

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December 2, 2007