Kami in K-town

He was once quoted as saying that he’s dedicated to making everyone’s life “fabulous”. Kamiar Rokni is the fashion industry’s blue-eyed boy and favourite success story. His ‘divorce’ (as he likes to call it) from Karma, the label he helped set up and designed in for roughly around seven years, left no doubt in anyone’s mind that he would be able to make it on his own.

Since the breakup, Kamiar’s individual line has been eagerly awaited by almost everyone in or remotely interested in the fashion industry. No one could truly predict what it would be like, but the general consensus was that it would be “utterly fabulous”.k2.jpg

The one thing that is immediately noticeable about Kamiar is that he tends to dress conservatively but with a flair (think black-and-white pant suit with bright red shoes) — he embodies the chic-yet-funky ’70s glamour, brings it to the current decade and makes it his own. Armed with a charismatic smile and devil-may-care attitude, this fashion magician launched his collection at the recently established Ensemble in Karachis Old Clifton district.

Kamiar was originally supposed to launch himself via the indefinitely postponed Pakistan Fashion Week, but has decided to start small by stocking in multiplexes, first at The Boulevard in Lahore. He is perhaps testing the ground and working on the feedback before arriving with the proverbial big bang. Kamiar confirmed this by saying: “With Ensemble I will be providing my ready-to-wear line on a regular basis and in the spring (2008), sometime in late March, I will be coming out with a couture collection. And hopefully I’ll back that up with a show as well.”

k3.jpgStanding side-by-side, with collections by fashion icons in the subcontinent — from India there is Tarun Tahiliani, Sumar Dugar, Rohit Bal and Ritu Kumar; and from Pakistan there is Faiza Samee, Umar Sayeed, the recently relaunched Shamael Ansari and fashion talent Sadaf Malaterre — is now Kamiar Rokni’s prêt-a-porter collection and couture line. Keeping it simple for the winter party season, Kamiar plays with bold motifs, appliqués and mesh embroidery on colours ranging from deep turquoise, mustard, hot pink, white, beige and black. The cuts are straight and simple and nothing is over-the-top. An outfit that stood out was a black ‘tuxedo dress’, longer on the backside and relatively short in the front, no doubt meant to be worn with pants, and with a simple white checkered neckline.

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“I was thinking in terms of re-thinking,” said Kamiar when asked about his inspiration for the line. “The inspiration was to re-think silhouette, embellishment, form and colour, and so I’ve done a lot of things I’ve never done before: a lot of appliqué, large motifs and a lot of graphic stuff. I also haven’t done that much of beading and crystals. The inspiration really was rebirth, a rethinking my design philosophy.” About whether he has a favourite piece from the collection, Kamiar says, “I do, actually. It’s sold. It’s called the Mod Squad outfit which is this A-line shift with black-and-white trim at the hem, that’s one of my favorites from the collection. Also, I love my warp and weft embellished tops from the same line.”

k5.jpgThe launch saw the likes of Safinaz, Umar Sayeed, Rizwan Beyg, Nomi Ansari, Deepak Perwani, Faiza Samee, Sadaf Malaterre, and also brought out the shy Iman Ahmed (formerly Imranna Ahmed, of Body Focus) and model Nausheen Shah.

When asked how they felt about Kamiar’s collection, they were full of praise. “Kami’s clothes are very well-cut, the choice of fabric is excellent and perfect for the Karachi weather. The colour coordination, piping, the little details and the finishing is very nicely neatly stitched. I think Kami will do very well in Karachi,” said Nomi Ansari.

Despite having a stock in Ensemble herself, Sadaf Malaterre enthused: “I picked up one of the shift tops myself. I like the simplicity in them and I adore him.”

Zeba Hussain of the Teachers’ Resource Centre and whose daughters are managing Ensemble was of the opinion: “I think Kamiar’s taken Karachi by storm. I’ve always admired his work and I’m really happy that he’s here with us. I’m looking forward to working with him.”k6.jpg

According to Deepak Perwani, Kamiar’s collection contains “beautiful stuff. I love the kaam as it’s quintessentially Kamiar: It’s playful, it’s fun and the embroidery is beautiful. I’ve always thought that Kami has a very strong sense of design, in terms of how he sees his women. And he definitely sees his women beautifully.”

Judging by the response the launch generated, Kami may well be on his way to replace the ‘K’ in Karachi by that in Kamiar.

Photos:

1. Model, Nausheen Shah going through the collection

2. A view from outside

3. Kamiar with Iman Ahmed (formerly Imrana Ahmed of Body Focus) and his publicist, Selina Rashid

4. Kamiar walks Freiha Altaf through his collection

5. Batul Rizvi, Omar Sayeed, Kamiar Rokni, Faiza Samee and Zeba Hussain

6. Rizwan Beyg and Faiza Samee examining Kamiar’s work

First Published:
Images
December 20, 2007